Sizing

Why your 2,000W power station will not start an 800W well pump

Running watts are a marketing number. Starting watts are the number that decides whether your pump kicks on or your inverter trips. Here is the difference, in plain English.

Rows of white circuit breakers inside a residential electrical panel

This is the single most expensive mistake in backup power, and it happens the same way every time. Somebody reads the label on their well pump — 800 watts, 1 horsepower — buys a 2,000-watt power station with what looks like a generous margin, waits for an outage, plugs the pump in, and watches the inverter shut off in under a second.

The battery is not defective. The math was just done on the wrong number.

Two numbers, one label

Every motor has a running wattage and a starting wattage, and they are not close to each other. A motor at rest has almost no resistance to current. In the instant it starts turning, it draws what is called locked-rotor amperage — a spike that can be three to seven times the running draw, lasting a fraction of a second before the motor comes up to speed and settles.

For an 800W well pump, that is a startup surge somewhere between 2,400W and 5,600W depending on the motor and whether it has a soft-start. Your 2,000W inverter sees 4,000 watts arriving in a few milliseconds, decides it is a short circuit, and does exactly what a well-designed inverter should do: it shuts down to protect itself.

The same physics applies to anything with a motor or a compressor. Sump pumps surge to 2,000W+ from a 700-800W run. Window air conditioners spike hard. Refrigerators do it too, just at a scale that is usually survivable. Resistive loads — space heaters, kettles, incandescent bulbs — do not surge at all, which is why a 1,500W space heater is easier on an inverter than a 700W pump.

The second trap: 240V

Well pumps have a habit of being 240V, and this catches people who did the surge math correctly and still bought the wrong machine. Most portable power stations output 120V only. A 240V pump plugged into a 120V outlet does not run slowly — it does not run.

Getting true 240V out of a portable means either a unit that natively does it (the EcoFlow Delta Pro 3 is the main one), or two units bonded together with a double-voltage hub, or an installed home battery. That is a real fork in the road: it is the difference between a $1,000 decision and a $4,000 one, and it is determined entirely by what is stamped on your pump.

Go look at the pump. Not the internet's guess about your pump — yours. The plate tells you horsepower, voltage, and often the locked-rotor amps (LRA). LRA × volts = your actual surge requirement. That one number decides everything downstream.

What actually solves it

There are three honest paths, and which one you are on depends on that plate.

How to not get this wrong

The rule is simple: size for surge, not for run. Take your largest motor's starting draw, add the running draw of everything else that will be on at the same time, and that is your inverter requirement. Then size watt-hours separately for how long you need it. Those are two independent numbers and people constantly collapse them into one.

Our calculator keeps them separate on purpose — it computes your surge ceiling and your energy requirement as two lines, then only shows you units that clear both. Our well pump wattage guide has the real LRA figures by horsepower if you want to check your own math first.

Check your real surge number.
The calculator uses measured starting draw, not nameplate — so it will not recommend a unit that trips on your pump.
⚡ Run the numbers

How we source this: figures come from manufacturer spec sheets, published utility and program documents, and our own spec database — never from vendor marketing copy. We re-check incentive values and prices monthly. See our methodology.

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